The beads have trapped moisture so you need to start the reactivation process with a cold oven, this help prevent seal failure when the water vapor starts to cause the packets to expand as water molecules are released. When processing more than one rack of packets leave 1”-2” of space between racks, rack should be at lest 1-1/2 feet from the heat source. Place packets on a wire rack shelf to improve air-flow, do not pile up packets. Tyvek has a melting point of 250 degrees Fahrenheit and will melt if you reach or exceed this temperature! The best oven choice is convection or forced air system as it provides the best air flow to aid in drying the packets. Ovens must be a vented model to allow moisture released from the Silica to escape during the heating process. Important: Check your ovens temperature for proper heating levels. Products that include reactivation instruction users should follow the exact manufacture recommended instructions. Low heat and a long processing time is required to properly dry out silica in Tyvek.ĭo not try to cheat the process by starting with a hot oven or using excessive heat, doing so will destroy the storage medium and/or Silica material.
Reactivation Instructions - Tyvek Packets You can get something like this that turns green when it needs recharging. Bake the old stuff to drive moisture out that it has absorbed for re-use.
Pelican hard case macbook pro 13 full#
I have been keeping my mac inside a closed case, together with a sock full of uncooked rice and a bag of desiccant, and already have macs fan control app set at 35 to 65 Cº.Ĭook the rice and eat it, it's doing you no good and add fresh desiccant often.
Pelican hard case macbook pro 13 how to#
If anyone would have any idea of how to avoid this problem from coming back, please let me know. The computer restarting by itself is another symptom of this problem. The same happened before, when I had kernel task taking about 90% of the CPU, before I took the logic board out for a complete clean up. P.S.: As of right now, system is using about 60% of the CPU, that should be happening because at this time, I only cleaned the logic board from its underside, without removing it from its place. Unfortunately Apple thinks durability is not part of quality! I don't mind paying a higher price for something but, I also expect that something to make it worth it. They refused to address the problem and claimed it was due to liquid damage done by a spillage. It is a shame Apple is sacrificing durability over design and quietness. My humble conclusion is that, the Macbook Pro (mine is a 13” mid 2012) is prone to condensation due to its very high operating temperatures (hot air holds more moisture than cold air) caused by its enclosure and low rpm exhaust, plus, its cold aluminum unibody, making a perfect place for condensation to be created. I was able to revive my mac but, just yesterday the same problem occurred again, and I followed the same procedure with the same result, Thanks God! So, after searching the web for a while, I learned that I should remove and clean the logic board with isopropyl alcohol and a toothbrush, so I did it. I have been living in the south of Brazil (where it is humid and gets cold in the winter months) for one year or so, but that should not be a reason for this kind of problem. All right Fellows, I am just sharing my experience about this problem, although I found a lot of complains about it on the web, there may still be someone trying to figure it out what happened to their mac.Īll of the sudden my macbook pro didn’t turn on, being located in Brazil, and having to deal with an Apple authorized repair shop with horrible costumers reviews, I decided to open it up and try to have a clue of what was happening, and there it was, signs of humidity on the logic board.įor the fact that I am sure no spill was in question and there were also greenish like mold areas on the board, I knew I was looking at a chronic problem, to be more specific, a condensation problem that had been occurring for quite sometime.
0 kommentar(er)
